Heretics

Ricarda Canvin’s final collection Heretics responds to the current lack of fashion geared towards queer and trans* people. The result is a collection that achieves androgyny through asymmetric cuts and details that disrupt the stereotypical masculine or feminine figure; includes modular elements like drawstrings, pins and reversibility for varied self-expression; draws on primary and secondary research into the fashion needs of queer and trans* people to inform fit and material choices; and aesthetically references medieval armour from depictions of Joan of Arc, a historical and mythologised figure famous for subverting gender expectations and blurring binaries of identity. A questionnaire inspired by the works of Britt (2019) and Nelson (2019) was developed to determine the needs and wants of the target audience. The results informed colours, materials, prints and fit. Collaging with geometric shapes and research imagery informed the initial designs in a spontaneous way that resulted in unique silhouettes and proportions outside of the confines of preconceived notions of what garments are. Working with queer and trans* models centred the demographic throughout the process and presented an invaluable learning experience in bespoke pattern cutting rather than working within the confines of menswear and womenswear sizes. Toiling revealed the possibility of reversibility and furthered the concept by reflecting the wholeness and authenticity of queer identities. Circularity was addressed through three key strategies. Emotional durability through emphasis on narrative and attachment; natural fibres and deadstock for increased biodegradability and to reduce the need for raw material extraction; a sustainable work ethic was maintained throughout the design and production of the collection. Throughout the creation of their final collection, Ricarda has been driven by a personal intention: Armouring gender heretics and falling in love with not making sense.